Gran Canaria surprised me with its variety. Steep mountains, quiet pine forests, and golden dunes by the sea. After Tenerife, which had set the bar pretty high (see post), we weren’t sure if this trip could match it. But over a week on the island, moving between viewpoints, coastal towns, and hiking trails that felt completely different every day, Gran Canaria easily held its own.
Puerto de las Nieves
Our base for the week was Puerto de las Nieves, a quiet harbour town under the cliffs of Agaete. We loved being right by the coast, even if the Atlantic here is too wild for swimming (there are some natural pools, though) and not exactly ideal for running either (expect a lot of elevation). What it lacks in beaches, it makes up for in sunsets. And on clear days, you can even see Teide across the sea. For us, it was an ideal base for exploring the island.
My Favourite Trails and Viewpoints
Roque Nublo, Roque Bentayga & Ventada del Bentayga
The dominants on Gran Canaria are definitely Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga. We managed to fit Roque Bentayga, Roque Nublo, and Ventana del Bentayga into one day, they’re all relatively short hikes and close to each other.
We started with Roque Bentayga (about 2 km round trip, roughly an hour up and down). It’s quite exposed but very quiet and almost no one was there, which is surprising given how striking it is.
From there, we drove to Roque Nublo, which was a completely different story: cars everywhere and crowds of people, including plenty who didn’t look like hikers at all. The trail itself is easy (around 3 km total, about an hour walk). Shortly after our visit, access was changed, parking near the trailhead is no longer allowed, and visitors now have to take a shuttle bus.
The last stop was Ventana del Bentayga, a trail leading to a natural “window” in the rock overlooking the mountains. It’s a bit longer than the previous two (around 4–5 km). We met only a few people, and through the rock window, you can even get a glimpse of Teide.
On the way back, we passed several viewpoints, one of which was Mirador Degollada de Becerra. Perfect timing, with the light and golden hour.
Artenara Trail Loop
From the town of Artenara, we set out on a loop trail around the mountain above it. It was varied and open hike with both forested parts and long exposed stretches. There isn’t really a single “peak” to reach, which feels a bit funny, but the views are fantastic: whole island opens up in front of you, with Roque Nublo and Roque Bentayga standing out clearly on the horizon.
After finishing the loop, we took a detour and drove back toward Puerto de las Nieves along the west coast. Our first stop was Mirador del Molino, one of the best viewpoints in the mountainous area. Getting there by car is not as easy as it sounds (the road is steep) but if you make it, you’ll be rewarded with a wide panorama over the valleys and ridges.
Along the same drive, it’s worth stopping at Mirador del Balcón, a famous cliff viewpoint overlooking the coastline. It’s a quick stop, though, parking is very limited and it tends to get crowded. If you are not a friend with heights, you may find it a bit hard, as the viewpoint is made of glass ☺︎
A bit further down the road, you can spot Charco Azul, a natural pool tucked in the rocks by the sea which is visible from the road.
Los Tilos de Moya
Another half-day hike was from Los Tilos de Moya up to the town of Moya and back. The trail passes through a green ravine which feels like a big change from the dry landscapes elsewhere on the island. The path isn’t long, and reaching Moya at the top is partly on the asphalt road, so we skipped that and hiked back.
Barranco de Guayedra
This hike starts right from Puerto de las Nieves, so we could begin directly from our Airbnb. It’s a steep trail that climbs through the Barranco de Guayedra, a narrow valley surrounded by rugged cliffs and desert-like vegetation.
We only managed to do about half of it. A part of the trail was closed for renovation at the time. If you plan to go, it’s a good idea to check the current trail status in advance, as conditions may change.
Mountain Towns and Villages
Artenara
Artenara surprised us the most and quickly became our favourite. It’s the highest village on the island, with wide views over the valleys and plenty of calm corners to stop and take it all in. We ended up coming back twice, once just to eat at a small café that served great vegan pancakes called Biocreperia RiscoCaido. It’s not crowded at all, which makes it feel authentic.
Firgas
Firgas is known for its tiled promenade showing all the Canary Islands. It’s a small town but has a pleasant atmosphere and even a nice vegan-friendly spot to eat called El Rincón de Marcos.
Teror
Teror is one of the more famous inland towns, with colourful houses, tiny streets, and lots of visitors. It’s worth a short walk, but parking was very difficult and the crowds were a bit much for me, so we didn’t stay long.
Gáldar
Gáldar was the closest to our base, so we stopped by for a short visit. It’s not necessarily a must-see, but it has a pleasant main square, a nice cathedral, and a few good places to eat like El Casco de Gáldar.
Along the Coast
Agaete
Agaete, our closest coastal town, didn’t have much to offer beyond cafés and the harbour, but it did have our absolute favourite spot: Hondo Café. We ended up there more than once; great coffee, food and vegan croissants!
Maspalomas
Driving south, we reached Maspalomas early in the morning to catch the sunrise over the dunes. Later in the day, it gets extremely hot and crowded, and the town itself felt a bit too touristy for our taste. The drive from Puerto de las Nieves was long and busy, so if you plan to go, make sure to leave very early.
Puerto de Mogán
We continued to Puerto de Mogán, often called the “Venice of Gran Canaria” because of its canals. It’s a pretty town, but when we visited, it was hot and almost empty except for the small beach, which was packed. Nice to see once, but probably not a place we’d return to.
Las Palmas
Las Palmas, on the other hand, felt completely different. Lively, urban, and great for remote work. The area around the main beach has plenty of cafés and coworking spots. We spent most of our time around Calle Ruiz de Alda, which has some fantastic vegan-friendly places: Be Happy, Mr Kale, Ramen Shifu, and Kafema serving specialty coffee.
In the same area, we also visited the Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo, a large botanical garden that took us an entire afternoon to explore.
Telde
On our way back north, we made a spontaneous stop in Telde and a few smaller villages along the coast, mainly hoping to find a good local fish restaurant. Instead, we ended up meeting Neptuno himself, a seaside statue we hadn’t expected to see ☺︎
Sunset collection
In the end, I was most amazed by the beautiful sunsets that were right outside of our Airbnb in Puerto de las Nieves. The spot was always full of people. Locals, a few tourists, and us, all watching the sky change over the Atlantic. Despite the crowd, it never felt busy or noisy. See for yourselves.
Until the next island!
bye bye ♡
